ACC Force Feedback Settings for Direct Drive Wheels
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ACC Force Feedback Settings for Direct Drive Wheels
Getting the force feedback right in Assetto Corsa Competizione is the difference between feeling every kerb, tyre slip and weight transfer through the wheel - or fighting an overloaded, numb mess. Direct drive wheels make that feedback far more detailed than belt drives ever could, but they also demand different in-game settings. The values that work great on a Logitech G923 will clip and distort on a MOZA R9 V3. This guide gives you a working starting point for MOZA and Simucube direct drive wheels in ACC, explains what each setting actually does, and shows you how to fine-tune from there.
Quick Reference - ACC In-Game FFB Starting Points
| Setting | MOZA R9 V3 | MOZA R12 V2 | Simucube 2 Pro |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gain | 75-85% | 65-75% | 45-60% |
| Min Force | 2% | 2% | 1% |
| Dynamic Damping | 60-70% | 65-75% | 55-70% |
| Road Effects | 20-30% | 20-30% | 15-25% |
What Each ACC FFB Setting Actually Does
Most guides throw numbers at you without explaining the why. Here is what each setting controls and why it matters for direct drive wheels specifically.
Gain is the master output level for the FFB signal. ACC generates a physics signal and Gain multiplies it before sending it to your wheel. Set it too high and the signal clips - flat-topping at the motor's maximum output and losing all the fine detail in between. Direct drive motors are substantially stronger than belt drives, so you need significantly lower Gain values in ACC to stay below the clipping threshold. A good test - drive through Eau Rouge or Raidillon at Spa. If the wheel suddenly feels heavy and uniform through that section rather than loaded and alive, you have clipping.
Min Force is a deadzone threshold. Any FFB signal weaker than this percentage gets discarded - no output at all. Belt drives often need 5-10% here to feel anything on straights because the motor has friction of its own. Direct drive motors have almost no friction, so they faithfully reproduce even tiny signals. Setting Min Force to 1-3% on a DD wheel keeps the tactile road texture without adding any artificial weight.
Dynamic Damping adds resistance proportional to how quickly you are turning the wheel. Think of it as a virtual oil damper - it smooths out oscillations and wobbles at high speed but still lets you feel the natural feedback through corners. Direct drive wheels can oscillate more easily than belt drives because they are so responsive, so keeping Dynamic Damping in the 55-75% range helps manage this without deadening the feel.
Road Effects is not a physics signal - it is a generated vibration effect layered on top of real FFB to simulate road texture. On a DD wheel you will often feel genuine road texture through the physics signal itself, so Road Effects can be kept low. Above 40% it tends to overwhelm the real data coming through.
MOZA Direct Drive Settings for ACC
The MOZA R9 V3 and R12 V2 are the wheelbases we see most often in our showroom paired with ACC. The R9 V3 sits at around 9.5Nm of peak torque - enough to give you a genuine feel of tyre load and grip without being overwhelming. The R12 V2 steps up to 12Nm, which is excellent for cars with heavy front-end loads like the GT3 machinery in ACC.
Before setting up in-game, open MOZA Pit House and confirm the following base settings:
- Wheel Torque: Leave at 100% of the wheelbase's rated maximum. Control strength through the in-game Gain instead.
- Spring Effect: Set to 0%. The sim manages spring forces itself.
- Damper Effect (hardware): 15-25% on the R9 V3, 20-30% on the R12 V2. This is a hardware-level damper layered beneath the sim, different from Dynamic Damping in-game.
- Friction Effect: 5-8% gives a slight mechanical resistance feel. Keep it low.
- Inertia: 5-10% to simulate the mass of a real steering wheel. Optional but adds realism.
The R12 V2 produces noticeably more torque than the R9 V3, which is why the in-game Gain recommendation is 5-10 points lower - you want the same physical force at the wheel, just with more headroom before clipping. If the R12 V2 feels too heavy in slower corners at 65%, drop Gain to 60% and increase Dynamic Damping by 5 points to compensate.
Simucube 2 Pro Settings for ACC
The Simucube 2 Pro runs on Granite Devices' True Drive software rather than a branded app like MOZA Pit House. Setup is slightly different but the principles are the same.
In True Drive, start with these settings:
- Reconstruction Filter: 5-7. This is a low-pass filter that smooths the FFB signal. Too low and you get raw jitter, too high and you lose detail. Most ACC players settle around 5-6.
- High Speed Damping: 10-15%. Helps control wheel oscillation under heavy braking.
- Additional Damping: 5-10%.
- Slew Rate Limit: Off (or maximum) to let ACC's physics signal come through fully.
- Static Force Reduction: Off.
The Simucube 2 Pro's 25Nm peak means in-game Gain should sit considerably lower than MOZA settings. Start at 50% and adjust up or down from there. The hardware detail resolution on the Simucube 2 series is exceptional for ACC - tyre squeal onset, weight transfer under trail braking, mid-corner grip changes all come through with a clarity that is hard to match at a lower price point.
Adjusting by Car Type
ACC's FFB physics differ significantly between car classes. The same settings that feel perfect in a Ferrari 296 GT3 may feel wooden in a Toyota GR86 GT4. Here is a quick guide for adjusting between classes:
GT3 cars have significant front-end load and generate strong FFB signals naturally. Your starting settings from the table above should work well here. If anything, you may want to drop Gain 3-5 points in cars with heavy understeer tendencies (Porsche 992 GT3 R, Audi R8 LMS EVO II) as they can generate spiky signals under slides.
GT4 cars have considerably lower front loads. The FFB signal is weaker by nature, which means you can afford to run Gain 5-10 points higher than your GT3 settings. Do not be surprised if 85-90% Gain on the R9 V3 works well in a Maserati GT2. Min Force can often go to 0% in GT4 cars since the lighter loads mean you still feel road texture without artificial boost.
GT Endurance (GT2 / Cup cars) tends to generate very sharp, stiff FFB through stiff suspension setups. Dynamic Damping at 70-80% often helps manage the harshness without losing feel.
Per-track advice: High-downforce tracks like Monza, Spa and Silverstone load the front tyres hard and generate strong consistent feedback. Short, tight circuits like Brands Hatch and the Hungaroring have more snappy transitions - slightly higher Dynamic Damping (5 points) helps there.
Testing and Dialling In Your Settings
The best approach to tuning ACC FFB is to use a single, consistent test route. Pick one track (the pit lane exit at Spa works well), one car, one setup, and change only one setting per run. Here is a quick methodology:
- Start with the settings from the table above for your wheel.
- Drive five consistent laps and note where the wheel feels wrong - heavy everywhere, numb in the centre, oscillating under braking, or vibrating constantly.
- If the wheel feels uniformly heavy and lacks detail: Gain is too high. Drop it 5 points and test again.
- If the wheel oscillates or shakes under heavy braking: Dynamic Damping is too low. Increase by 5-10 points.
- If the wheel feels dead on straights but comes alive in corners: Min Force may be too high. Drop to 1% or 0%.
- If road texture feels overwhelming and distracting: Road Effects is too high. Drop to 15% or turn off entirely.
One thing worth emphasising - there is no universally "correct" ACC FFB setting. The physics simulation is highly detailed and personal preference matters enormously. Some drivers want maximum detail and run higher Road Effects. Others prioritise clean tyre load feedback and run Road Effects at zero. Both are valid. The goal is to eliminate clipping and unwanted oscillation, then tune the character of the feedback to your preference.
Ready to Upgrade Your Direct Drive Setup?
The settings above are built around the direct drive wheelbases we stock and test regularly at our showroom in Dandenong South. If you are currently running a belt-drive wheel, the step up to direct drive in ACC is significant - the difference in detail, weight and responsiveness genuinely changes how you read tyre behaviour and set up a car.
You can see the full range of direct drive wheelbases we stock, or explore the MOZA Racing range and Simucube collection for the complete lineups. If you are not sure which wheelbase suits your setup and budget, we run a working showroom in Dandenong South, Melbourne where you can test the R9 V3, R12 V2 and Simucube 2 Pro before you buy.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does ACC have a built-in FFB clipping indicator?
Not directly in the HUD, but the Helicorsa or Simhub overlays can display a clipping warning. You can also feel clipping as a loss of detail - corners that should feel lively suddenly feel uniform and heavy. If in doubt, drop Gain by 5 points and see if the feel improves.
Should I use ACC's Gamma setting?
Gamma is a hidden setting in the FFB options that curves the signal output. Most ACC guides recommend leaving it at 1.0 (default linear). Non-linear curves can create an artificial centre feeling that obscures what the tyres are doing.
Do I need separate wheel profiles for different cars in ACC?
ACC does support per-car FFB settings, which is worth using once you have a solid baseline. Your GT3 and GT4 Gain values in particular will differ by 5-10 points. The Dynamic Damping and Road Effects settings are largely universal across cars.
Why does my MOZA wheel oscillate under heavy braking?
This is a common issue when Gain is too high relative to Dynamic Damping. The signal spikes sharply under trail braking and the motor overshoots its target position. Try increasing Dynamic Damping by 5-10 points first, then reduce Gain if the issue persists. Increasing the Friction setting in MOZA Pit House by 2-3 points can also help damp out small oscillations.
